A lot of places claim to be the Grand Canyon of something-or-the-other, but there is only one Grand Canyon. Grand Canyon is timeless, yet provides a record of time; changeless, yet is different by the hour. Other canyons may be longer, deeper, wider, steeper, but none have all the qualities that make this canyon Grand.
Most people visit Grand Canyon on a longer trip (e.g. heading to California), others travel long distances just for the visit to the canyon (e.g. from Europe). Either way, about 4 million people visit every year (the second most for a US National Park, but unlike the Great Smoky Mountains (the most visited National Park) you have to detour to the park, and it is a longer trip to get there) and if you are there on a summer day it seems all of them are there that day.
East from the junction of the route south to Kingman (and Flagstaff) past Mather Point, Desert View Drive leaves most of the crowds behind and has some of the best views. Yaki Point, Grandview Point, Moran Point, Lipan Point, Navajo Point and Desert View. In the summer when the Village is jammed with people and there is no parking at Mather Point, go east toward Desert View. Here you see outstanding views without the crowding.
Most of the accomodations (lodges, campgrounds, store, staff housing, parking, hospital, train station) are in the area called Grand Canyon Village. This area also has some of the most famous views.
Is it a drive if you have to ride the shuttle? The viewpoints on the West Rim Drive have very little parking and require the shuttle much of the year. This enables a more leisurely visit and allows you to walk between many of the views and escape the crowds on the bus, and especially the crowds around the lodges.
In the summer, the North Rim is the uncrowded alternative for visits. It is also less accessible to most visitors being a long drive from Interstate 40.
Nestled among the cottonwoods along Bright Angel Creek is the Phantom Ranch Lodge, Campground, and Ranger Station. It is a small town with mail delivery only via mule.
The first thing you learn when hiking in Grand Canyon is that, contrary to what you originally think, going up is easier than going down. Back country here is very different from other parks since you are often within sight of populated areas (but it can still be impossible to get there). All travel below the rim depends on water. Either where it is for drinking or how much there is for rafting. Almost all the trail traffic is on the 3 trails that meet at Phantom Ranch -- Bright Angel, North Kaibab, and South Kaibab.
Today it is hard to believe, but the establishment of Grand Canyon National Park was not easy. Legislation failed in 1882 (10 years after Yellowstone was created), and again in 1883 and 1886. Harrison (the sponsor in 1886) created the Grand Canyon Forest Reserve in 1893 when he was president. Theodore Roosevelt created the Game Reserve and then the National Monument in 1908. Attempts to designate the park failed again in 1910 and 1911 (before Arizona became a state), but were finally successful in 1919.
The Official Grand Canyon National Park site has all the offical information, including the pointers to accomodations, camping, hiking, news, traffic, weather, shuttles, etc. Why look anywhere else when this is the current information.
Maintained by Keith Price.
